Morocco possesses a craftsmanship as rich as it is ancestral. Its artisans are a source of pride for the country, with expertise passed down from generation to generation. They are at the heart of Muda Paris’s project: showcasing exceptional craftsmanship. So, if some terms are now familiar to you, such as babouches, gandoura, or jabador, there might be others you’re not yet acquainted with! In this article, Muda Paris offers you a brief glossary of traditional Moroccan attire and the craftsmanship that composes them. Are you ready to enhance your vocabulary while diving into the captivating history of Moroccan craftsmanship? Let’s get started!
Aqad, or aakad (عقد)
The 3aqad are small buttons used to fasten traditional attire, for example, on a caftan. While these buttons can sometimes be made of metal, aaqad typically have a unique feature: they are woven! They can even be made from silk or gold threads, depending on the garment and its intended wearer. Sometimes, they are used solely as ornaments on traditional clothing.
The 3aqad consist of two parts: the button and the eyelet. The eyelet enables the closure and securing of the two fabric parts.
Berchman (بارشمان)
This refers to thread work, handcrafted typically by two people. It’s known as passementerie, involving the creation of decorations and embellishments for clothing (or even furnishings) using threads, cords, ribbons, etc. This work usually occurs during the finishing touches of a product and the addition of details.
In traditional attire, berchman is a complex embroidery motif often crafted with metallic threads, frequently used to adorn sleeves, collars, or other parts of clothing.
Debana (ديبانة)
This term refers to typical motifs found on traditional Moroccan attire. Artisans create them with thread and needle. These motifs form overlapping circles, resembling a fly, hence the name “debana.” It also refers to an embroidered or woven band adorning the edges of sleeves and hems of clothing, adding a subtle decorative touch.
Originally, the term used was “bliba.”
Dfira (دفرة)
These are twisted silk or wool cords, sometimes adorned with tassels, used to decorate clothing and add an elegant touch.
Fssala (فصالة)
This term describes a type of cut. It’s the traditional cut used for making caftans, forming the letter T.
Jiyab (جيب)
These are pockets integrated into caftans, sarouels, and jellabas. Originally, they were deep, but modernization of traditional attire has led to smaller pockets, especially on caftans, sometimes designed solely for decorative purposes.
M’ramma (المرمة)
This term refers to the loom.
Moukh
This term describes an embroidery motif. It’s made with skalli thread, which has a shiny finish.
Ntaâ or tarz ntaâ
Originating from the city of Fes, this is a gold thread embroidery. Usually intricate and heavy, it’s worked on thick fabrics like velvet. The motif typically resembles a peacock, possibly a legacy of ancient trade with China.
Ronda (رندة)
This is a type of circular traditional embroidery, often used to decorate collars, sleeves, and pockets of clothing.
Sfifa (سفيفة)
Sfifa is a narrow decorative band usually sewn along the edges of clothing, often in contrasting colors to create an appealing visual effect. It’s used in various Moroccan crafts and appears on decorations as well as garments like caftans and gandouras. It’s a detail seen on both women’s and men’s attire, essentially enhancing all traditional Moroccan outfits. This piece can also be referred to as “aamara.”
On this jabador, the sfifa is the golden embroidered band, a true ornament that sets this three-piece ensemble apart!
Skalli samm (الصقلي)
This is a gold or silver thread used for embroidering caftans. Now more accessible, synthetic skalli thread with a shiny finish is also available.
Tarz (طرز)
This is the art of embroidery. Different regions of Morocco have various types, including:
- Tarz al gharza, from Fes. This type of embroidery is recognizable by its monochromatic geometric patterns.
- Tarz ntaâ. Traditionally, gold thread embroidery on silk velvet. It’s also monochromatic.
- Tarz tetouani, as the name suggests, from Tetouan. Easily identified by voluminous floral patterns. Unlike the previous two, this type of embroidery includes multiple colors.
- Tarz el meknassi, from Meknes. This type of embroidery is characterized by diagonal or grid stitching.
Tarz m3alem (ترز معلم)
Specific ornaments worn by master artisans or experienced craftsmen, reflecting their expertise and skill in their artisanal trades.
And let’s review the classics, shall we ?
Babouches
Babouches are traditional shoes, consisting of a flat sole and a leather upper. Depending on the regions of Morocco, they come with embroideries or, on the contrary, can be very minimalist.
➡️ Discover the babouches from Muda Paris
Gandoura
The gandoura is a traditional outfit made up of a long and wide tunic that reaches the ankles. It can be worn on its own or over a sarouel.
➡️ To learn more about the history of the gandoura, click here.
Jabador
Well-known to Muda Paris regulars, the jabador is a three-piece outfit for men: harem pants, a tunic, and a lightweight ‘vest.’ The jabador comes in various fabric types. You can find very fine and lightweight models with a sheer vest, for example, as well as other more opaque models using velvet. It’s the quintessential outfit for combining elegance and sophistication. Today, it’s generally worn for occasions like weddings or Eid celebrations.
➡️ Learn more about the history of the jabador.
Jellaba
The djellaba is a long tunic that reaches the ankles. It’s easily recognizable due to the hood it features. It’s an essential part of Moroccan culture, available for both men and women.
Selham
The selham is a cape with a hood. Traditionally, the selham was made from wool. Nowadays, the selham comes in various fabrics.
➡️ Discover the selham from Muda Paris.
The Glossary of Traditional Moroccan Attire and Craftsmanship : let’s not forget the headwear!
Chachiya (or kuffi)
A widely worn head covering, even among the youth. It takes various forms depending on the country. It’s often a soft cap, crocheted or made of wool. The chachiya is worn daily.
Razza (or amama)
A sophisticated head covering usually worn on important days like Eid or weddings.
Terbouch
A small red felt hat, traditionally made in Fes. It’s widely worn from the Maghreb to the Middle East.
We hope you enjoyed this glossary of traditional Moroccan men’s attire and the craftsmanship behind it. As the saying goes, it’s the details that make the difference. In Moroccan clothing, this adage truly holds meaning. While machines may sometimes assist, the artisans’ expertise endures. Across all domains, this craftsmanship forms Morocco’s cultural heritage. Therefore, Muda Paris is dedicated to offering you traditional Moroccan attire, working with these exceptional artisans. As a result, you can find high-quality outfits from the comfort of your home through our online store.
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